Before you sign a single contract.

5 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Contractor

Most homeowners hire the contractor who returns their call first and quotes the lowest price. Both signals are worse than coin flips. Here are the five questions that actually predict a good outcome.

1. Are you licensed in Florida, and can I see your insurance certificate?

"Licensed and insured" should be a one-sentence answer with documents to back it up. If they hesitate, ask for the license number and the COI (Certificate of Insurance) directly from their insurer. A serious GC will email both within an hour. Coverage you want to see: general liability ($1M+), workers' comp, and auto.

2. Can you give me three recent references — phone numbers, not just names?

Names without numbers are useless. Real references include the homeowner's direct phone and the project type. Call all three. Ask: "Did they finish on schedule? Were there change orders? Would you hire them again?" The third question is the one that matters.

3. What does your payment schedule look like, and what triggers each draw?

A red flag answer: "1/3 down, 1/3 at start, 1/3 at completion." That structure leaves you exposed. A better answer: small deposit (5-10%) at signing, then progress draws tied to specific milestones — demolition complete, rough-in inspected, drywall up, final punch. Never pay for work that hasn't been done.

4. Who specifically will be on my project, and how often will the project manager be on-site?

Ask for the PM's name, cell number, and how many concurrent projects they're running. The right answer is a single PM who will be on your site at least three times a week. The wrong answer is "we have a great team" with no specifics. Subs who get shuffled between projects cause schedule slips.

5. Do you have a fixed-scope written estimate, or are you giving me a "ballpark"?

A fixed-scope estimate lists every selection (cabinet manufacturer, model, color), every fixture (faucet brand, model number), and every line item (rough plumbing labor, electrical permit, debris removal). A "ballpark" estimate is a foot in the door — costs grow once you sign. If they can't give you a fixed scope on a defined project, walk.

How to Budget a Kitchen Remodel That Doesn't Blow Up

Kitchen remodels in Sarasota cost more than they did three years ago, and they're going to keep going up. Here's what they actually run in 2026, where the money actually goes, and the line items that surprise people.

What kitchens really cost in 2026

For a 200-square-foot kitchen with quality (not luxury) materials in the Sarasota market:

• Refresh ($30k–$60k): paint, new cabinet doors or paint, mid-tier countertops, new appliances, new lighting. Layout stays the same.
• Mid-range remodel ($65k–$120k): new semi-custom cabinets, quartz or stone counters, mid-tier appliances, tile floor or LVP, possibly an island. Light layout changes.
• High-end remodel ($125k–$250k+): custom cabinetry, professional-grade appliances (Wolf, Sub-Zero, Miele), natural stone, real hardwood, structural changes (wall removal, addition).

Where the money actually goes

For a typical $100,000 mid-range project:

• Cabinets — 30 to 40% ($30k–$40k). The biggest single line item.
• Labor — 20 to 25% ($20k–$25k). Skilled trades, GC oversight, project management.
• Countertops — 8 to 12% ($8k–$12k).
• Appliances — 8 to 15% ($8k–$15k). Wide range; pro appliances triple this.
• Plumbing & electrical — 8 to 12% ($8k–$12k). More if the layout changes.
• Flooring, paint, lighting, hardware — 10 to 15% ($10k–$15k).

Always keep 15% in reserve

Even on well-scoped projects, things come up: a discovered code violation behind a wall, a rotted joist, a delayed cabinet shipment that requires temporary subfloor protection. Budget 15% on top of your fixed-scope estimate as contingency. If you don't use it, it's a windfall. If you do, you stay above water.

The three line items that surprise people

• Permits and inspections — typically $1,500–$3,000 for a meaningful remodel. Required. Skipping them creates resale problems years later.
• Dust protection and daily cleanup — a serious GC will charge for this and it's worth every penny. Demolition dust gets into HVAC, ducts, every closet. Containment systems (zip walls, negative-pressure fans) cost $500–$1,500.
• Temporary kitchen during demo — if you don't want to eat takeout for 8 weeks, plan to spend $500–$1,500 on a basement microwave/fridge setup. Or factor in restaurant costs if you'd rather.

Permits 101 for Sarasota Homeowners

Half the contractors operating on the Suncoast will offer to "skip the permit" to save you a couple thousand dollars. They are not doing you a favor. Here's what permits cost, what they protect, and why skipping them costs you more in the end.

What requires a permit

The exact rules depend on your municipality (City of Sarasota, Sarasota County, Lakewood Ranch, Venice, North Port, etc. each have variations) but the basics are universal:

• Always: structural changes (load-bearing walls, additions, decks over a certain size), electrical work beyond fixture replacement, plumbing relocations, gas line work, HVAC replacement.
• Usually: bathroom remodels (because of plumbing), kitchen remodels (because of electrical/plumbing), roof replacement.
• Often not: paint, flooring, cabinet replacement-in-place, fixture swaps (if no relocation).

When in doubt, call your local building department directly. They'll tell you in 30 seconds and they don't charge for the conversation.

What permits cost

For most residential remodels in Sarasota County: $400–$3,000 depending on scope and municipality. A whole-home renovation might run $4,000–$10,000 in permit fees across building, electrical, plumbing, mechanical, and impact-fee assessments (Florida-specific). That's roughly 1–3% of project cost — not nothing, but not a budget-killer.

Why skipping the permit costs more

• Resale impact. Title insurance companies, real-estate attorneys, and most savvy buyers run a permit search on any home they're buying. Unpermitted work shows up as a red flag — buyers either drop their offer by the cost of correcting it, or they walk. The "savings" you got skipping the permit ten years ago becomes a $20,000 buyer concession at closing.
• Insurance gap. If unpermitted work fails — fire from improper wiring, water damage from improper plumbing — your homeowner's insurance can deny the claim. The "we'll just not tell anyone" trick works until something breaks.
• No inspection means no second pair of eyes. An inspector catches things — a missed ground wire, a vent run with too sharp a bend, a load path nobody thought through. Permits aren't bureaucracy; they're a free quality-control system you've already paid for through your taxes.
• Stop-work orders. If a neighbor calls the city (and they sometimes do), you get a stop-work order and a fine, plus you have to either get the permit retroactively or rip the work back out. Either is more expensive than just permitting it day one.